Historic Grant Hotel

Open House San Diego 2020
U.S. Grant Hotel
Downtown San Diego
March 8, 2020

We spent a pleasant Sunday afternoon touring several architectural sites on view to the public as part of the Open House San Diego program.  The Open House concept began in London, England in 1992 as a way to bring a wider understanding of architecture to the public.  The San Diego version began in 2017 with tours of sites in Banker’s Hill, Downtown, the Gaslamp District, East Village, and Barrio Logan.  It has expanded its range since then. On these weekends, places that may not normally be open to the public are available.  The OH! San Diego program is organized by the San Diego Architectural Foundation.  In 2018 we toured some of the sites in the Banker’s Hill area as part of the Open House weekend, but never got around to blogging about them.

This year we visited several sites in the Gaslamp District, starting with a self-guided tour at the U.S. Grant Hotel.  We picked up a handsome brochure that led us around the public spaces of the hotel.  The brochure was available on the OH weekend at a table hosted by volunteers, but may also be available to the public at the Concierge desk for tours at other times.  The hotel is located on the site of the original “downtown” hotel, the Horton House, built by Alonzo Horton when he created “New Town” San Diego in the 1860s.  The U.S. Grant Hotel was built by a consortium of businessmen affiliated with Ulysses S. Grant, Jr., the second son of President Grant.  Construction was interrupted in the wake of the San Francisco earthquake and fire in 1906, because of other demands for construction labor, but eventually the hotel opened in 1910.

The guide led us around the ornate lobby area, which holds historic images and information about the development of the hotel in the mezzanine level near the valet entrance.  There were no functions being hosted the day that we toured, and we were able to walk through all of the ballrooms and meeting rooms that are not on view when in use by private parties.  The Palm Court is an elegant space in the location of what was once the hotel’s dining room, and is named in honor of the former Palm Garden terrace, later enclosed to provide the “Presidential Ballroom” on the second floor.

Also on the lobby level is the beautiful and historic Grant Grill. The Grill was a meeting place for businessmen in its early years of the 1950s and 1960s; “Men ONLY Before 3:00 P.M.” read the sign at the time.  In 1969, that rule was challenged by a group of female attorneys who held a protest sit-in at lunch time, booking a table under an assumed, masculine name.  The rule was finally abolished after legal action was threatened.  One of the protesters later went on to become a member of Congress and another became a Superior Court judge.

We went up to the second floor and saw what seems to be the largest public space in the hotel, the Presidential Ballroom.  It boasts a stage area.  In the foyer on that level are portraits of all of the presidents and first ladies who have visited the hotel, while near the entrance to the ballroom are photos of presidential visits.

On the lower level we found several interesting architectural drawings, plans, and photographs of the hotel throughout its history.  In the 1930s, an eleventh floor was added to the hotel to serve as the studio and broadcast center for KFSD radio.

The elegant “Court” spaces, Chafee (pictured above) and Chairman’s, served originally as lounges for men and women preparing for or seeking respite from the events in the adjacent Crystal Ballroom.  The Crystal Ballroom is an ornate space that has been remodeled, most recently when the Sycuan Tribe purchased the hotel and modernized it in the early 2000s, but it retains the air of the original.  The travertine and marble are set off by the elegant pillars and gleaming chandeliers and draw the eye to the original fireplace at the far end.

Coming up: posts about the historic San Diego Trust and Savings Bank building, and sites in the Gaslamp.

Dream Machines

Petersen Automotive Museum
March 7, 2020
Wilshire Blvd
Los Angeles

We went to the Petersen auto museum to see the special exhibition Hollywood Dream Machines: Vehicles of Science Fiction and Fantasy.  Dozens of vehicles from science fiction themed movies and television shows are on display.  The exhibition was curated in collaboration with the San Diego-based Comic-Con Museum.  It runs through May 2020.

There are science fiction vehicles displayed around the lobby and even a couple in the parking garage.  The first car to meet us as we entered the main gallery on the ground floor was the familiar DeLorean from the Back to the Future movies.  We particularly enjoyed the numerous Batman related vehicles, not only the Batmobiles, but also Batman motorcycles, Joker cars, and models and images of the Batmobile over the years.

Meredith and her sister were taken by the Star Wars speeder on display. We rolled our eyes at the exhibit tag, though.  For all three of us the 1977 movie will always be Star Wars, and not The New Hope.

We also enjoyed seeing other non-Hollywood classic cars.  The Petersen has an extensive collection, which it rotates from time to time. Although we have been there before, there were many vehicles on display that we had not seen before, including the 1886 Benz Motorwagen pictured above.  The Motorwagen had 0.75 horsepower and could achieve a top speed of 10 miles per hour.  Although not the very first automobile, it may be the first practical one.

On our three prior visits, we went with Meredith‘s mother Margaret. Our most recent prior visit was to see the grand reopening in 2015.  Shortly before that the museum had remodeled its exterior; our blog post about that visit, including the architecture, can be seen here.  The year before that we went to the Petersen to see the Mustang exhibit, celebrating the 50th anniversary of Ford’s release of the first Mustangs.

The museum’s collection is extensive, and not all cars it owns can be displayed at any one time.  The Petersen, for an extra charge, offers tours of its vault.  We have never seen the vault but think it might be worth doing someday.

We noticed the same deficits in accessibility that struck us when we last visited, with Margaret in her wheelchair.  Although there are no steps to climb inside the museum, the internal doors are heavy and do not have push button openers, and the parking garage lacks an elevator.

Parking is expensive, a flat $17 for the day, but that reflects the Wilshire location.  Other parking options in the area are in the same cost range.

We are thinking that our next Los Angeles museum venture will probably be to the Skirball in May, to see the Star Trek exhibition, which will open on April 30.

Nixon Library and Museum

Nixon Presidential Library and Museum
Yorba Linda
January 19, 2020

Our first museum trip of 2020 was to the Nixon library in Yorba Linda, up in Orange County.  Last year we visited the Reagan library in Simi Valley and purchased a membership.  That membership offers reciprocal admission privileges at other presidential libraries, and we were interested in the Nixon library, so we made a point of going before the membership expired.  (We never did write up our February 2019 Reagan outing, but a blog post about an earlier visit we made to the Reagan library can be seen here.)  We were also interested in the special exhibition at the Nixon library that ran just through March 1, about the Apollo 11 mission and moon landing.

We were totally engrossed by the museum, both permanent collection and temporary exhibit.  That’s why we are running behind with this blog post; a full report would require a much longer write up than we usually provide.  Let’s just hit the highlights.

The permanent collection recounts the history of Nixon’s life before, during and after his presidency.  It starts with his presidency, then the second section of the permanent galleries traces his life before and after his time as president.  (In contrast, the permanent galleries at the Reagan museum follow a strict chronological approach, starting with his boyhood.)  The Watergate gallery is comprehensive and does not pull punches.  We were completely fascinated by the exhibits and became immersed in the events of that era, to the point that we did not realize how much time had gone by.  Richard Nixon was never one of our favorite public figures, but as we traced the events of his life at the museum, we were impressed with his humble origins, work ethic, intelligence, and persistence.  We knew about, but were interested to revisit, the main events of his presidency: the trip to China, detente, the Vietnam war and disengagement, domestic social changes, etc.  But we were not aware of Nixon’s continuing role as an elder statesman, consulted by subsequent presidents on foreign policy matters.  We were also struck by one comment: that he was an introvert in an extrovert’s profession.

There are good videos throughout the museum, especially the introductory video at the entrance, which features some of Nixon’s advisors, including Henry Kissinger, as well as biographers and family members.  There are historical video recordings as well, such as the Checkers speech, and Nixon’s resignation speech which we both remember hearing.

Nixon’s birth home is located on the grounds and can be toured with a docent.  His father Frank Nixon built the house himself, from a kit supplied by a lumber yard.

Also on the grounds is the helicopter Nixon used while president, and it can be toured as well.  It is the one area that is not handicapped accessible; visitors must climb stairs to get into it.

The temporary exhibit commemorating the moon landing sparked memories for both of us, of that magical summer night when we first watched men walk on the surface of the moon.

The building that we visited was the museum.  The presidential library, with an extensive document collection, is a separate building, open for research Monday through Friday.

There is no full service café on site; there is a lunch cart, which closes at 3 pm.  Visitors are free to leave and eat elsewhere and then return.

Full price tickets are $16, with discounts for seniors, students, military, and children.  The museum is open Monday to Saturday 10am to 5pm, and Sunday 11am to 5pm.  Accessibility good, except for the helicopter.

Parking is free, and there were plenty of open spaces the day we visited.